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Christmas Filigree 01(Lg)
Christmas Filigree 01(Lg)
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Floral Notebook & Pencil Case

Supplies List

• Machine embroidery design
• Embroidery machine – 5x7 hoop
• Serger or sewing machine
• 1 1/2 yards print or solid collton fabric (outside of the case)*
• 16" x 26" warm & natural batting (or other batting of choice)
• 1/2 yard white cotton fabric
• Embroidery thread
• Cotton/poly sewing thread
• Tear away stabilizer
• Spray stabilizer (optional)
• Cutting mat/rotary cutter
• Ruler
• Fabric pen (optional)
• Stick pins
• Scissors
• Iron
• Sewing needle (optional)
• Safety pins
• 1/4" sewing foot
• Darning foot (can use the embroidery foot)
*Notes: You need 3-4 different coordinating fabrics for pockets, handles and ruffles.*Wash/dry and iron all fabrics before starting. Do not use steam with the iron after you cut the fabric-this will cause shrinking of the fabrics.


Step 1: Cut two pieces of coordinating fabric 16 inches x 26 inches, one for the outside and one for the inside. Cut 1 piece of batting 16 inches x 26 inches. Step 2: Make a sandwich with all 3 layers. Wrong side of the fabrics touching the batting.
Step 3: You can spray the layers with temporary spray adhesive or pin the layers with safety pins together for stabilizing for quilting the layers. If using safety pin 4-6 inches apart is good. Step 4: Use the darning foot for free motion stippling or use your walking foot and quilt straight lines. I used the free motion quilting method. There really is no right or wrong way to do this. Just play around and have fun! I start in the middle and work my way out and back to the middle as i get to the edges. If using the pin method-make sure to remove the pins as you go along. Be sure to get the edges on all sides.
Step 5: Finished stippling. Step 6: Square off the edges to 15 inches x 25 inches.
Step 7: Front and back view. Step 8: Cut two pieces of solid fabric 9 1/2 inches x 15 inches. These will be used for the large pocket. We will be embroidering on it.
Step 9: Center and hoop white fabric with tear away stabilizer. Embroider the design in your color choices. I chose mine to go with the fabric. Step 10: When finished remove the fabric and tear away the excess stabilizer from the back and press with an iron.
Step 11: Close up of the finished design. Step 12: Cut one piece of coordinating fabric 3 inches x 30 inches for the ruffle.
Step 13: Fold the fabric in half lengthwise and press with wrong sides facing. Step 14: Sew a long stitch about 1/8 inch from the raw edges, leaving a tail on both ends for gathering. When gathering, only pull the bobbin thread. Be sure to pull slowly as not to break the threads. You will make it about 15 inches long.
Step 15: Pin the ruffles raw edge to the top of the embroidered white fabric, moving the ruffle to fit just past the ends of the fabric. Step 16: Place the other piece of white fabric on top and stitch along the top edge 1/4 inch.
Step 17: Top stitch. Now stitch along the bottom edge. Step 18: Turn inside out. Press the pocket flat.
Step 19: Top stitch close to the ruffle on the white fabric. Step 20: Finished pocket.
Step 21: Find the center of the quilted piece of fabric. You can place you pocket on the center or you can move it out a little from the center. Step 22: Pin and stitch along the two sides and bottom starting with one side of the ruffle.
Step 23: Cut off the excess ruffle on both sides. Step 24: Cut two pieces of white fabric 7 1/4 inches x 7 1/4 inches. This will be the pencil pocket.
Step 25: Pin three sides of the white pocket fabric together and sew 1/4 inch seam. Clip the two corners and turn inside out. Step 26: Press the pocket flat.
Step 27: Pin the pocket to the case with the raw open edge lined up with the raw edge of the case. Pocket will be facing opposite direction of the first large embroidered pocket. Sew close to the edges of the pocket leaving the top open. Step 28: Using a water soluble marker, mark off the pencil pockets, 1 inch to 1 1/4 inch is large enough. Mine are 1 inch.
Step 29: Sew the pocket lines. Making sure to back stitch at the beginning and the end of each line. Step 30: Finished with pencil pocket.
Step 31: Cut two pieces of cordinating fabric 8 inches x 9 inches. This will be the third pocket. This would be another great opportunity to embroider another design or personalize the notebook case with a name. Step 32: As before with the other pocket, sew three sides with 1/4 inch seam and clip the two corners, turn inside out and press the pocket.
Step 33: Place the pocket on the other side and sew three sides close to the edges of the case, leaving the top open for the pocket. The opening should be opposite of the large pocket. Step 34: Cut two pieces of cordinating fabric 3 inches x 12 inches. These will be for the straps. Press both pieces in half lengthwise and then press in the outer edges to the center. Stitch these closed, close to the edges lengthwise.
Step 35: Pin the handles to the outside top edges of the case, then stitch them in place. I pinned mine about 6 inches apart. Step 36: Finished handles.
Step 37: Making the binding: Cut coordinating fabric into strips, 2 1/2 inches wide. You will need about 90 inches. To make the binding, place 2 pieces right sides together as in the picture. Mark on a 45 degree angle mark and stitch. Step 38: Cut off the corner 1/4 inch from the seam. Sew as many pieces as needed to get 85-90 inches.
Step 39: Open the fabric strip and press. Step 40: Fold and press the strip lengthwise the whole run of fabric.
Step 41: Fold in one corner of the binding strip and press. Step 42: Fold back over the fabric and press in place.
Step 43: Using the walking foot, pin the binding to the edge of the right side of the notebook. Sew about 3 inches, back stitching at the beginning and the end. *I tested out my binding by pinning it all the way around the case before I sewed it in place. I didn't want the binding seams to fall in the corners and cause too much bulk. Step 44: Fold the binding back over so it is even with the edge of the notebook. Sew 1/4 inch all the way around the notebook.
Step 45: Sew all the way to the end of the casing, stopping 1/4 inch from the end. Back stitch and cut the thread. Remove the notebook from the machine. Make a mitered corner. Fold the binding up making a 45 degree angle and back down. Step 46: Making the binding folded edge even with the outside edge of the notebook. continue to sew, back stitching at the beginning of the corner and at the end when you come to a corner. Remember to stop 1/4 inch from the end. Continue all the way around the notebook until you get about 3 inches from where you started.
Step 47: There will be extra fabric on the binding. Cut off anything you don't need. I kept about a 2inch piece extra. Open the fold and tuck the rest of the binding in the pocket. Step 48: Finished stitching the binding.
Step 49: Finished first part of the binding. Step 50: Fold the binding over to the back and pin in place. The binding should cover the 1/4 inch seam from adding the binding.
Step 51: Fold the corner in and the other corner over it and pin in place. Step 52: Case binding pinned in place.
Step 53: Two ways to finish off:
(1) With a needle and thread, whip stitch the binding to the back side of the notebook. Thread should not be longer than 20 inches(longer thread causes knotting). When you run out of thread, knot a new piece and start where you left off. This helps secure the last tie off.
(2) Sewing machine method. Use matching thread and sew the binding down.
Step 54: Finished outside of the case.

Fun, stylish and personal!

 

 

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